The Boil, The Transfer, and The Pitch

The remaining part of the boiling process went smoothly.  We added the flavoring hops at 45 mins and the aroma hops at 5 mins; once it was done, we transferred the pot to the sink, where we had an upside-down 9" cake pan sitting (for pot stability) in ice.  And then we tried to get the dang thing to cool quickly.  If you consider 40 minutes quick, then we succeeded.  I think that next time we brew, we will invest our loose-change savings in a wort chiller.

This time, instead of pouring the pot into the carboy, we siphoned the wort from the pot.  This

 took about 15 minutes, but it was worth it, as we avoided a lot of solid matter.  I think this will help with the beer flavor.  AND Darren took a specific gravity reading while I held the siphon. He read:

SG = 1.058 at 73 F.

By the way, if we do this again in a one-step fermentation (like we are doing now) and use a

 siphon to transfer, we will want to start transferring the wort at about 100 F, beacuse it t

akes so long to transfer that it cools substantially on the way.  Darren read 73 F during the transfer (though it was probably a cool reading, since the remaining wort in the pot probably cooled rapidly in the ice bath), and we still had a gallon of cooling water to add. I'm sure it went okay though, since I just read 72

 F on the carboy in the closet.

The siphoning process seemed like it added quite a bit of air to the wort, which is good for the yeast.  Still, once the wort was transferred, Darren pitched the yeast and gave the carboy a good shake to add more air.  We then capped the carboy with a bung and the one-way bubbler air-release thing (not sure what its technical name is).  It now sits happily in the Harry Potter closet.  

We, and the brew-kittens, await sounds of bubbling, active yeast.

P.S. The pictures are not leftovers from last time

I was just looking at the blog from the previous brew day, and I noticed that Darren is wearing the same shirt.  Ha!  Though it may look like it, the pictures that I'm posting today are new and fresh from today, and are not leftovers from last time.

And in case you're wondering, no, Darren does not have a closet full of the same outfit like Mr. Rogers.

Added the bittering hops; the hour boil

We simmered the grains for 20 mins at ~155 F, raised the temp to 170 F, and then removed the grain sack.  Darren opened the sack, and we poured cold water (~0.5 gal) through the sack into the pot to remove the last bit of malty goodness (and Darren squeezed it).  We brought the pot to a boil, then removed from heat, and added the malt extract.  I used the toothpaste trick of rolling the package to get as much malt out as possible.  Darren stirred, and then resumed heating until the pot was at a rolling boil.

He added the bittering hops, whice began the hour boil.  As a note for t

he future, once the pot is at a rolling boil, do not put the lid back on.  Darren and I stepped out of the kitc

hen 

briefly after having done this (to let it achie

ve a heavy boil), and it boiled over in the mean time.  The Morning Glory Company's guide did warn against this, so I'm adding my warning too, for posterity.  We lost a bit of hops from this, and Darren had to remove the pot from the burner to clean up briefly so that we didn't flood the house with the smell of burnt hops and grains.

All is well though, and the pot is boiling, and the b

rew kittens are santizing themselves to help with transferring the brew to the carboy. 

Brewing Beer #2 -- Seven Bridges Cooperative Organic Pale Ale

Darren and I visited the Seven Bridges Cooperative (an organic beer brewing and coffee roasting co-op) on Friday to pick up ingredients to make a new batch of ho

mebrew.  We figured that we would try to brew this one before we move, since it will likely be too hot to brew beer in Davis during the summer (though in the fall, we plan to bring the kit to my parent's house to have a lager making brew contest [everybody wins!]).  Instead of getting raw ingredients to re-make the Sierra Pale Ale, the lady at the co-op convinced

 us to go with one of their pre-made kits.  Darren and I agreed that this was a good choice, since the recipe from the Sierra Pale Ale didn't include exact quantites, and we didn't record those last time.  The kit that we picked up, the Organic Pale Ale, had just been assembled a few days before, so freshness is on our side!

The kit includes:

7 lbs Briess Pale Malt Extract

0.5 lbs Briess Caramel 20 ^oL Malt

0.5 oz Belgian Challenger Hops (pellets) -- bittering

0.5 oz New Zealand Cascade Hops (pellets) -- flavor

0.5 oz New Zealand Hallertaur Hops (pellets) -- aroma

0.5 tsp Irish Moss --takes the place of whirlflock tablet; is apparently main ingredient

1 Vial White Labs WLP001 California Ale Yeast

Step-by-step instruction pamphlet

Complementary "Illustrated Guide to Brewing Organic Beer Kits" pamphlet

We also bought 60 #BE9 bottle caps for the bottling process later.

Today, we are brewing the beer in this kit.  I am playing the role of overseer and record-taker, since I am feeling under the weather today.  Fortunately for us, Darren has all but finished his PhD dissertation and the talk for his defense, so he has minimal work to do at the moment--he did a bit of lab work this morning, and then came home for lunch to start this process.  After lunch, Darren meticulously sanitized all of the brewing equipment in our bucket with a water/iodine mixture.  The glass carboy is scrubbed clean, and is presently soaking in sanitizer out side.

Step #1 of the step-by-step instructions tells us to soak the grains in hot water for 15-20 minutes, below 180 F.  However, we are modifiying this step and following the instructions of last time, which is supposed to maximize sugar and malt release: heat to 155 F, turn off heat and let sit for 20 mins with lid on.  Darren placed the grains in the cheesecloth sack from last time so that we can easily strain it once they've soaked.  I'll write more as we proceed.

The brew kittens (who are hardly kittens anymore) are non-plussed.